Island Hoppin'

. . . In Northern Michigan

It's been a week since we sailed into Michigan. So far, we've island hopped to Drummond where we cleared U.S. Customs, to Mackinac where we were tourists for a day, and to Beaver where we holed up from high winds and waves.

Every year a crew of Chattanooga sailors and friends travel up to Mackinac Island to sail in the Mackinac to Chicago race -- often winning!  That race was all we knew about Mackinac Island until now. 

Mackinac Island

Fort Mackinac is the major historic site on the island. Built in 1780, it was a strategic link in defense of the Strait of Mackinac and Lake Michigan.

Today the island is a summer resort with more bed-and-breakfast inns per square inch than anywhere we’ve visited. The only way to reach Mackinac Island is by private boat or ferry.

On Mackinac, walkers, bikers and horse-drawn wagons abound. Motor-driven vehicles aren’t allowed. Here, a wagon loaded with boxes passes a tour trolley waiting for passengers.

Mackinac Island is also known for its fudge. Chocolate fudge, double dark chocolate fudge, chocolate and peanut butter fudge, chocolate mint fudge, chocolate turtle fudge, maple fudge, maple walnut fudge, vanilla fudge, the varieties go on and on.

Mackinaw City

From Mackinac Island, we traveled to Mackinaw City across the Strait. Okay, Mackinaw City isn’t an island, but its residents obviously have the right island attitude. . . "It's Five O'Clock Somewhere" and "No Shoes. No Shirt. No Problem."

Talk like a Michigander

Our Michigan Looper friends, Mike and Gay, on the trawler Irish Attitude, taught us to talk like native Michiganders. For example, UPers are people who live in the Upper Peninsula and regarded as lacking sense by the rest of Michigan. Of course, UPers regard people who live below the Mackinac Bridge as Trolls. We guess that makes us Temporary Trolls, now that we’ve passed below it. And then there’s The Mitt. Michiganders use the palm side of their right hand as a map of their state to point to their home town.

Gold Flag Loopers

We’d first run into Irish Attitude in New York State, waiting for word on the Erie Canal opening. Mike and Gay left with a couple of other Loopers to start the Champlain Canal a few days ahead of us. We kept running into them in Canada. At Mackinaw City, we were able to celebrate Irish Attitude “crossing its wake” (completing the Loop) and to see them replace their white Looper flag with the gold one they are now entitled to fly.

Crossing your wake is a bittersweet time. Loopers are happy to finish a long (6,000 miles), sometimes hard trip. Yet Loopers get so absorbed in the adventure that it's sad to see it end. 

The sun rose on the UP and the Mackinac Bridge, a 4-mile-long, 

135-foot-high bridge over the Strait of Mackinac. It's called The Big Mac here.

Beaver Island

Our latest weather experience has been in winds of 30+ with gusts of 52 knots (on the anemometer right), with waves of 2 feet – at the dock in St. James Harbor on Beaver Island. 

From Mackinaw City, we had motor sailed to Gray’s Reef. That’s where most Loopers either curve south toward Charlevoix or Petroskey if the winds and waves are favorable, or continue straight to Beaver Island for protection. At Gray’s Reef, trawler friends about five miles ahead who had curved around toward Charlevoix said that the wind and waves had increased. They were occasionally seeing six-foot waves. We decided to tuck into Beaver Island. A weather front moved through, causing the turbulent weather at the dock. It gave us a two-day layover and a chance to get to know this interesting island.

Beaver Island is the largest island in Lake Michigan and can only be reached through St. James Harbor to the north of the island. Originally settled a thousand years ago by Native Americans, it was the French who gave Beaver Island its name in their search for beaver pelts.

The island's history became richer in 1847 when James Strang moved there. He started a Mormon community that grew to 2,700 (today the island's summer population is about 300), had five wives, and appointed himself king. He saw himself as the successor to Joseph Smith in the Mormon Church and saw Beaver Island as the start of his kingdom. Nine years later, he was assassinated by his own people.

After his followers fled or were chased away, Irish immigrants settled on Beaver Island. Irish national flags still fly around St. James Village.

Gaelic sign welcomes visitors to Beaver Island.

Beautiful water, terrible price

Since Mackinac Island, we’ve admired the clear water. We thought it was because Michigan and other Great Lakes states took strong steps to keep it clean. No, it is because of Zebra mussels. They are an invasive species from Russia that we’re trying to keep out of southern rivers and lakes.

Each tiny mussel will filter one gallon of water a day, eating its nutrients. The result is that fish and other aquatic life lack the food to flourish. You can see 30 feet down in crystal clear water, but what you don’t see are fish close to shore.

A Drain on the Great Lakes

The Great Lakes also have to deal with the issue of dropping water levels. Climate change in recent years has brought less snow and that snow melt fills the lakes. Because temperatures are also warmer in the winter, the lakes don't glaze over with ice as they once did. Without that glaze, lake water continues to evaporate all winter. The result is that there are boat houses that are high and dry and stationary docks that require a ladder to get up on from a boat.

Sailing South Again

At Drummond Island, Carina started sailing south again for the first time since December 15! Because of the weather systems that can develop on Lake Michigan, we’re moving south at every chance. 

Although we're on the go, it looks like we won't meet the Looper timetable in Skipper Bob books. He suggests that Loopers be in Chicago by Labor Day.  While we won't make that schedule, we won't be too far behind.

Canada, Eh?! (pronounced: “A”, as in Hey without the H)

. . . We’ll Miss You, But Are Glad to be Back in the U.S.

Last Images of Canada

Canada is a gorgeous country. Before leaving Canada behind, we have a few more images to share:

This type of fishing boat may be unique to the North Channel and Lake Huron. That's where we began seeing them. The high sides with no walkway are unusual. A sea gull hitched a ride atop the antenna, and another rode on the dinghy on the cabin top.

Canadians love flowers and their gardens. In Killarney, between Georgian Bay and the North Channel, Black-eyed Susans were side by side with Gaillardia at the Mountain Lodge Marina.

From the time we entered Canadian waters, we saw float planes either flying about or parked in someone's back yard near the water. This float plane landed as the sun was lowering in Killarney, Ontario.

Kent's breakfast one morning was cereal with wild blueberries that Mike and Cindy had picked. And they didn't even have to fight off bears to get them.

A stalk of bountiful pink lilies were growing near Thessalon City Marina, in Ontario.

This, my friends, is what Walmart looks like in Canada -- a Supercentre. The brands were mostly Canadian. That's as it should be. The departments are like any Walmart in the U.S. The merchandise is different. This Walmart is the only one we found near the waterways in Canada.

Canadian marinas dressed up their docks and greenways with flowers. Huge pots of mixed flowers lined the docks at Thessalon.

Conchy Tonkin’

At Blind River Marine Park, Ontario, Kent blew the conch horn for the last time in Canada to signal the setting of the sun. A minute later, a South Carolina Looper blew his conch horn in response. Then minutes later, a sailor on a San Francisco 
trimarand blew his conch horn!  Since Marathon, Kent has usually been the sole conch horn blower at sunset. It was really cool to have a conch concert!

Aloha to Spiritus

At Blind River, we said Aloha (goodbye) to our trawler friends, Eddy and Linda on Spiritus. They crossed to the U. S. the next day. It takes longer for us slow sailboats. We fully expected to say Aloha (hello) to them again somewhere along the way, never dreaming it would be the next day, our first night back in the U.S.

Linda, the pirate queen, threatened to board us before she left for new conquests. Little did she know that we had a grappling hook aboard and thought about hooking on to Spiritus for a tow to our next destination.

“Home” at Last

Yesterday we cleared U.S. Customs, leaving Canada early, to avoid high wind and waves on Lake Huron.  Every country has problems, the States being no exception. It's still a great place to live. Seeing the stars and stripes of our flag gave us chills and put big grins on our faces.

To give Canadians credit, they are better flag wavers than the U.S., at least along the waterways. Every home or cottage had a flagpole and maple leaf flag, no sports or college flags.

U.S. Customs shared space at the Drummond Island Yacht Haven. Note the sign on the side offering various services. U.S. Customs is just below Bicycle Rentals and just above Pump Outs.

Immigration Officers Check us Out

While sailing toward Mackinac (pronounced: Mackinaw) Island today, an impressive silver boat with huge motors curved around and slowly motored next to us. It was U.S. Immigration and Border Patrol just checking to be sure we’d cleared Customs and that we were on the up and up. To block the wind that morning, we'd zipped the side panels in, enclosing the cockpit. That may have roused their curiosity about us.

The lead officer had a southern accent mixed with some Michigan. He asked where we’d come from that morning. Our minds emptied, and we had to get our log to look it up. He asked where we’d cleared Customs. We went “duh.” It wasn’t our finest moment, but they let us stay despite our initial forgetfulness.  Then he asked why we didn’t have a Vols flag instead of the Bama flag since we were from Tennessee, but a big Roll Tide and a grin were his answer. Thankfully, he grinned back.

Caribbean Blue Waters in Michigan

Traveling the Loop changes preconceived ideas we had about geography, history and so on. Yet another surprise was in store when the deep, clear blue water of Canada’s side of Lake Huron changed to Caribbean blue as we sailed into the U.S. side. Who would have thought the water in Michigan would be the same beautiful turquoise as off Destin, Florida?!

Canada’s Gift to the Americas

As we said goodbye to Canada, its gift to the Americas said goodbye to us. . . in a way.

Love Canada, But

. . . Ready to Be Back in the U.S.A.

Please don’t misunderstand. Canada is a wonderful country. Its people are spectacular. It’s just not home. Neither is Michigan, but it’s in our home country.  Internet, phones and bank cards work there.

We can get our mail there and pay bills. Who would think we’d be this happy to pay bills?!

Ice Road Truckers is No Joke

After a stop in Midland to have our masts raised, Aurora (in photo) and Carina hit the road again, in a manner of speaking. The mural showing the history of Midland on the grain elevators is the largest historical outdoor mural in North America.

Canadian waters do freeze in the winter -- even big Georgian Bay freezes.  A biker who gave us directions when we were in Midland said it snowed four feet every winter, the bay freezes several feet thick and people love it. He couldn’t imagine living elsewhere. We’ve got to admit that it’s really beautiful and a sailing paradise for the few months that it’s thawed.

In fact, we’re afraid we may see the bay freeze this week. The Georgian Bay winds and unseasonably cool temperatures make this area, well, cold. . . cold enough to get Mr. Heater out.

Carina’s sails were out one beautiful balmy 60-degree day on Georgian Bay.









Most Canadians live within 100 miles of the U.S. border, leaving a lot of Canada farther north. The Ice Road Truckers serve those far north people.

30,000 Islands, 1 Million Rocks

 A typical rock island is in front of a Georgian Bay range light.

For the past few days, we’ve traveled through the 30,000 Islands section of Georgian Bay.  For every rock island above the water, there are about 10 or more beneath. Some charts show that many underwater rocks are named. We've seen Jane Rock, for instance. There’s no Kent Rock so far.

The islands are part of the Precambrian Shield, some of the oldest rocks on earth.  All are carved or marked some way by the glaciers that covered this area during the Ice Age.

Since entering Georgian Bay, we’ve noticed stacked-stone men on many points. Called inuksuk, these particular sculptures are a recent addition to the landscape, not a prehistoric remnant. They are interesting, nonetheless. Their history is with native Inuits in Canada who used them are markers in their travels. Inuksuks are increasingly becoming a national symbol of Canada. 

As remote as these rock islands are, many have one or more cottages built on them. Sometimes they are more than cottages and are actually full-sized homes that people live in three months of the year. Maybe.

The islands are often stark and windswept. Although many cottages have electricity, most islands can be reached only by boat.

The Pointe au Baril Station is a picturesque, historical lighthouse midway up Georgian Bay. It’s located near Hangdog Reef and Shoals. We’re used to reefs being coral and shoals being silted areas. At Hangdog, the reef is rock above the surface, and the shoals are rocks below the surface.

A Loopy Coincidence

We continue to travel with Cindy and Mike on Aurora (center), now joined by close friends that they met early on the Loop, Eddy and Linda on Spiritus (right), a Grand Banks trawler. 

In one of those odd Great Loop coincidences, Aurora, Spiritus and Carina all started to cross the Gulf on the same day in November. We didn’t meet them until we ran into each other in Canada. Aurora and Carina both left from C-Quarters Marina to do the crossing, although we’d not met when there. After hours in the Gulf, the seas that day were a little too much for Aurora, a 22-foot Hunter, so Mike and Cindy ducked into Steinhatchee, Florida, and later hopscotched down the Florida coast.

Carina and Spiritus made the crossing, both going to Tarpon Springs, and docked two spaces away from each other. A giant trawler was between us at the dock. Although we waved and said, “hi,” we never really met.


Eddy (center) clowns around with Kent (left) and Mike (right) while exploring Horsley Island.

Raindrops glitter on the water in the Golden Sword Island anchorage while Eddy and Mike rush to close Spiritus up.

Now our paths have crossed again. Oddly enough, all three boats will end our Loops very near each other. In fact, Carina and Spiritus will cross our wakes at the exact same place -- just south of Pickwick Dam. It’s odd because we’re all from different parts of the country -- Aurora from the Minneapolis area, Spiritus from Navarre, Florida, and Carina from Chattanooga and yet we all started our odyssey near each other.

Thoughts about crossing our wake are premature, though. First, we have to get out of Canada before it freezes.

For once, the old sailors' saying was wrong. Red skies at night brought gray skies, 

dropping temperatures, and high winds the next day.  

Lock and Roll

. . . Locks R Us

There’s not a lock in Canada we don’t like. Or that's what it seems like. By the time you read this, we will have locked through 101 Canadian locks -- virtually every lock in the eastern part of the country. That’s 10 locks on the Chambly Canal/Richelieu River, 2 locks on the St. Lawrence Seaway, 2 locks on the Ottawa River, 44 locks on the Rideau Canal, and 43 locks on the Trent-Severn Waterway. 

Add the U.S. locks, and we’ll have gone through 144 locks by the time we lock back home through the Chickamauga Dam in Chattanooga.

A lock is just an elevator device for boats to go around man-made dams from the water elevation at the top of the dam to the bottom, or vice versa. Here are a few of the most unusual locks and sights along the way: 

The Guillotine Lock
The second Ottawa River lock -- the Carillon --  is totally modern, very different from the historic first lock. Boats tie to a floating dock and raft up. What makes this lock unique is the gate to let boats in or out. It looks like a guillotine. Lock gates usually fold from the sides to open or close. 

Gravity sucks water down
Most of the locks we went through were old, well maintained and completely gravity- and man-powered. If we were in a lock to go up in elevation, water was released into the lock from the higher river or lake. It usually made a whirlpool in the canal as it filled the lock. The reverse happened if we were going down in elevation. Water was released from the lock into the lower river or lake.



Finally!! Gateway to the Trent-Severn

We finally reached the start of the Trent-Severn Waterway three weeks after entering Canada. If the Erie Canal had been open, we would have been here immediately after passing through Customs. 

By the time we started up the waterway, we were tired, behind schedule and racing through locks and countryside. That colored our impressions of the waterway at first. The more Trent-Severn locks we did, the more we appreciated it. The waterway is long, 240 miles, about twice the length of the Rideau Canal. Along the way, it goes through lakes that you’d expect to see on a Canadian tourism Web site. 

Trent-Severn Lock Number 1
The Trent-Severn has a mix of technology. Like the other Canadian canals, it has some quaint locks that the lock master cranks open, sometimes with push cranks like this.. However, it also has hydraulic locks, two pan locks – one at Peterborough, one at Kirkfield – that are the best locks ever made (to our way of thinking) and one railway lock, named Big Chute.

Just a pretty picture
Sometimes there's no reason to show a photo other than it's just a pretty picture. This photo was taken as we motored to the entrance of the Peterborough Lift Lock. 

Pan or Lift Locks are the Greatest!

The Peterborough Lock has two pans, one underwater while the other is raised. We motored Carina into the left side of the lock and tied her off to a side rail. The left pan was lifted while the right one lowered. All the while, we floated in the left pan.

Aurora, with Mike and Cindy, leaves the Peterborough Lock. It took about five minutes to raise the lock from the time we were all tied off. That's about three to four times faster than a traditional lock.

The Most Unusual by Far -- The Big Chute Railroad Lock

The Big Chute was originally created to eliminate invasive species from spreading, we understand. Boaters will see a resemblance to a Travel Lift which lower straps into the water, lifts boats and drives them to where they are to be placed.

The Big Chute "Lock" follow tracks that take it from the water on one side to the water on the other.

It sinks down into the water. The depth it sinks depends on the size and numbers of boats. Carina and Aurora filled the lock, but the lock master told us he'd lifted as many as six (small) boats at once.

Carina is moved toward the straps. Because of her 4-1/2-foot wing keel, she had to be raised more in the front than the lock operators would have liked. All went well with the lift, though.

Aurora is moved toward the straps. Unlike with Carina, her stern (back) was lifted higher.

Up and over the hill until we were both afloat again.

Since we were through with locks, it gave us time to enjoy the hundreds of "cottages" in what Canadians call Cottage Country. Some are more cottage like, such as this one, while others are more cottage-mansion-like.






After a brief stop at Midland, Ontario, to have the mast raised, we're off to Georgian Bay, the North Channel and the U.S.A.!