Starting America's Great Loop

. . . From the Tennessee to the Tombigbee

Although we enjoyed our stay in Huntsville, it was time to move on.  Bob and Trish told us early on that weather dominates everything you do – or don’t do. They are so right. Sailors ordinarily are extremely weather aware.  Sailors who cruise are weather obsessed. We’re constantly checking weather Web sites when we can get an Internet connection.

The days leading up to our turn onto the Tombigbee were perfect -- crisp, bright blue, fall skies, warming to the mid-70s or higher. The nights cooled to the high 50s for good sleeping.

On most days, we traveled around 35 miles. Bob and Trish in Pogopelli showed us small anchorages off the beaten path that they found doing their Loop in 2007. It was odd that we saw little river traffic, either recreational or commercial. We had the river to ourselves, it seemed, except for the wildlife.

On Wheeler Lake were huge white birds that we learned were migrating white pelicans. They were roughly four feet tall with a nine-foot wingspan. Until you see them among migrating ducks, you don’t realize their huge size.

White pelicans are freshwater birds that migrate from Canada and our most northern states, unlike brown pelicans that eat saltwater fish.

Not Alone After All

At Wilson Lock, our timing was bad, according to the lock master as he apologized to us for the wait. We sat for two big tows to lock through – nearly three hours – before it was our turn. One of the tows was slowed down by the wind leaving the lock, the lock master said. The afternoon was beautiful, and the wait gave us time to catch up on news about mutual friends. Fortunately, we didn’t experience the same wind as the tow when we locked through.

Bob and Trish waited on a good word from the lock master.

A Good Ending to the Day

Just down river from the lock was the Florence Harbor Marina, a pleasant end to a long day. It would be hard to find a prettier, cleaner marina.  With the courtesy car, we went on a Garmin Nuvi adventure to find Wal-Mart for even more provisions. Most times car GPS systems get you where you want to go directly. Other times it is an adventure. This was the latter.

Florence Marina was a picture-perfect place to dock.

What a re-bolting development!

The next morning, we found that a bolt had sheared off connecting the alternator to Carina’s engine. Thankfully, Bob had a bolt that would work. It surprised him that he had it. He didn’t need it for Pogopelli. We’re adding bolts to the extras we carry.

We were lucky to have friends who carry bolts too large to fit their boat.

Making the Turn

Squirt truly became a sailing dog as we unfurled the jib on Carina for an easy sail – our last sail on the Tennessee River for awhile as we approached the Tombigbee. The river there was divided, half Alabama, half Mississippi. We tried to hug the green cans as long as possible to stay in Alabama, Jane’s home state, but eventually had to furl the sail. We headed into Mississippi waters and in a few minutes turned left onto the Tombigbee Waterway. We’re sailing south!

With this turn, Carina is on the Tombigbee portion of the Tenn-Tom Waterway.

It was a dark and stormy night

Isn’t that how Snoopy’s novel began, the philosopher dog of Peanuts cartoon fame? Last night at Zippy Branch where we anchored off the Tombigbee River, it was every bit of dark and stormy.  After days of fall skies, our weather luck stopped last night for a while. The temperature dropped to around 49 degrees. Wind whistled through the rigging. Carina sailed around at anchor – but the anchor held, which is the most important thing. Then the rain and wind moved through.

Zippy Branch is our first stop as we officially start the trail of the Loopers.

We have almost 40 miles to travel today, so we put on layers and lifted anchor at 8 a.m. as planned. The destination for the day was through the canal, the man made part of the upper Tombigbee Waterway.

Yes, it WAS chilly and wet.